June 29, 2009

June 29, 2009

“We…say to the Inyenzi [cockroaches] that if they lift up their heads again, it will no longer be necessary to fight the enemy in the bush. We will…start by eliminating the internal enemy…they will disappear.” -Hassan Nyeze, Kangura, Janvie 1994

We started our day a bit later than yesterday, and Jesse had a table ready with some coffee and tea, so we wouldn’t have to go into town and pay for it, as he knows we’re trying to conserve money. It was very sweet of him. Then, we jumped into a discussion about some of the readings once again before heading out to the Kigali Genocide Memorial.

Words cannot describe how incredibly moving it was to walk among the mass graves and look at the names on the wall opposite. There are so many, and many of the remains have not been identified. There are presently fifteen mass graves with two hundred coffins each, and each coffin holds the remains of about 50 people each (my math is so off; the guide told us there were 300,000 in the graves, and 15x200x50 is only 150,000… oh well). It was incredibly moving, especially seeing Rwandans walking past, and seeing the flowers placed over the graves.

Then, we went into the actual museum part. As an American studying the Rwandan genocide, I had a very westernized idea of what happened, how it could be prevented, how to rebuild, and even the justice system of Rwanda. Entering the museum and reading the text from the Rwandan point of view was incredibly eye opening and sincere.

I knew that colonialism of Germany and then Belgium had divided the Bahutu, Batutsi, and Batwa people, but I had no idea that it was done by their socioeconomic standing, or that there were actually ten clans before it was decided to break it down into the three. Apparently, anyone who owned more than ten cows was considered Tutsi and those with less than ten cows was considered Hutu. The Tutsis were considered better by use of the Belgian Hamitic ideology, which basically said the Tutsi were derived from white Africans in Ethiopia. The Hutus were repressed, and finally rose up and began massacring Tutsis in 1959, shortly before their independence in 1962, which implemented a repressive, single-party system into the country of Rwanda. Kayibanda became the prime minister, and began a government policy of ethnic cleansing. In the 1973 military coup, Habyarimana took the presidency, declared the MRND the only party, and stated that ‘all Rwandans,’ were members.

Moderate and extremist groups emerged in opposition to the MRND, but the repression and massacres of the Tutsis continued. There were massacres in October 1990, January 1991, February 1991, March 1992, August 1992, January 1993, March 1993, February 1994, and then the actual beginning of the three month genocide, which began on April 6, 1994, and went until July 4, 1994. What’s more is that the French government knew the goal of the Interahamwe (younger, more extreme part of the MRND), and still supported the Habyarimana regime. During the genocide, French soldiers also identified Tutsis on behalf of the government.

What shacked me the most, however, was my discovery of the ‘Hutu Ten Commandments,’ all of which were translated into English (and absolutely revolted me) except number six, which they chose to keep in Kinyarwanda (I have to ask Silas about that one)—once I get internet access, or access to Sam’s audio recorder, I will put them on here. There seems to be an underlying theme here in the chains of genocide, as similar documents and orders have been used to make ethnic cleansing efficient and ‘legal,’ to the motherland.

I also learned that not only shooting and machetes were used, but also crucifixion was used to kill Tutsi people. The place where I’m staying, St. Paul’s, held 2,000 refugees during the genocide, and, as far as I know, it ended up being a safe haven, although a lot of other churches were not so lucky. Some people were crucified, some were hacked apart by machetes, some were shot, some had their tendons cut so they couldn’t run away, and some were thrown alive into latrines. Rocks were thrown down at them until there was silence. The number, unlike the one we find in the United States and ‘official,’ documents, is OVER 1,000,000. We’re lucky if we see the word 800,000. And this number killed doesn’t even begin to describe the children scarred by what they saw, as well as those recovering from machete cuts, bullet wounds, infection, starvation, and torture. After the genocide, there were over 300,000 orphans, 85,000 of them the heads of their households.

Speaking of heads of households, we visited a village full of children who are heads of households, orphans of the genocide, victims of HIV, and young girls who were victims of rape and sexual violence today. The village is called Uyisenga N’Manzi Peace Village. We arrived and Jesse and Silas disappeared, so the children integrated us into their soccer game. The range of ages of the children was wide—anywhere from five to nineteen, I would say, and we really had a great time with them. We then entered a circle and discussed different issues faced by Rwanda, as well as their village.

They urged us to write to the media and not just our political leaders, as the media is a way to gain attention and rally support. We need to help the people of Sudan to live together as the Rwandans now do, and understand that yes, there are differences, but these should not escalate to violence and loss of peace and culture. One boy, who seemed to be the leader of a household, possibly age twenty, suggested that Sudan cut into states, just like the US. This way they are divided, yet still connected, and they won’t have to split into separate countries.

We asked, ‘What is the root of Rwandan security?’ The reply was, ‘There was no revenge. Rwandans started and ended the genocide. Then, security was provided. Perpetrators used to try to come back into the country and fight, but the government wouldn’t allow it, and this restored security. Our grandfathers lived happily together. There were no wars or killing each other. Colonialists tore us apart.’

We then asked about their feelings of Gacaca, which is their form of justice in bringing the genocidaires to trial. It has been about 50% effective, but makes sure a lot of people are brought to trial. “We tried. It was a system to try. A choice in resolving. Rwanda is different from the USA. Most people here know their neighbours and know when someone is missing from a household, and who is there and who isn’t there [after the genocide]. We know the number in the family. We chose Gacaca, because everyone knew each other. They are tried by the people in their own neighbourhood. Judges are from the neighbourhood and the family of survivors is there. It could be the only option of forgiveness and uniting people again.”

Another person replied, ‘It was the only choice taken, and the only form of justice that has been used in any way. When you’re in front of neighbours and family and are begging for forgiveness and the forgive, then you are truly forgiven. In the International Tribunal Court, you have a lawyer. Your judges are not your neighbors and you will not feel sorry for what you have done [because you are far away in Tanzania and there is no one you know to look in the eye]. It doesn’t give a chance in their heart, and for them to believe it is wrong—they are not asking forgiveness except when they ask their neighbours. When you are forgiven in front of your own children and family, it gives confidence in the unity of the people.’

Again, it was incredible to talk to these suffering children, and after our talk, we were invited to a house to look. We took some pictures with them, and the children were so excited, especially because they could see their own photo on the screen of the digital camera. I cannot ever imagine wanting to hurt these poor beings. They were so beautiful and bright, and confident in the future of their country. And…they LOVE Obama! Apparently, they spent days celebrating in the streets when he was elected. They found it amazing that America was able to put aside their racial hatred and decide that he was the man for the job. They asked us a lot of questions about him, and how he got elected, and why so many people rallied behind him. They asked what he was doing currently for the people of Darfur. Sadly, I didn’t have much to report to them, except the appointment of Gration as the special envoy. They very much hope he will make ending the genocide a priority.

That’s all for today, except what I found probably the most interesting about the Kigali Memorial Museum, which was the ‘Hutu Ten Commandments.’ I will put it at the bottom of this entry.

In peace,

-Mac

1. Every Hutu should know that the Tutsi wife, wherever she may be, is serving the Tutsi ethnic group. In consequence, we shall consider a traitor any Hutu who does the following a traitor:

* marries a Tutsi woman

* befriends a Tutsi woman

* employs a Tutsi woman as a secretary or a concubine.

2. Every Hutu should know that our Hutu daughters are more worthy and conscientious in their role as woman, spouse and mother. Are they not more beautiful, good secretaries and more sincere!

3. Bahutukazi [Hutu women],, be vigilant and try to bring your husbands, brothers and sons back to reason.

4. Every Hutu should know that every Tutsi is dishonest in business. His only aim is the supremacy of his ethnic group. As a result, any Hutu who does the following is a traitor:

* makes a partnership with Tutsi in business

* invests his money or the government's money in a Tutsi enterprise

* lends or borrows money from a Tutsi

* gives favours to Tutsi in business (obtaining import licenses, bank loans, construction sites, public markets, etc.).

5. All strategic positions, political, administrative, economic, military and security should be entrusted only to Hutu.

6. The education sector (school pupils, students, teachers) must be majority Hutu.

7. The Rwandan Armed Forces should be exclusively Hutu. The experience of the October 1990 war has taught us a lesson. No member of the military shall marry a Tutsi.

8. The Hutu should stop having mercy on the Tutsi.

9. The Hutu, wherever they are, must have unity and solidarity and be concerned with the fate of their Hutu brothers.

* The Hutu inside and outside Rwanda must constantly look for friends and allies for the Hutu cause, starting with their Hutu brothers.

* They must constantly counteract Tutsi propaganda.

* The Hutu must be firm and vigilant against their common Tutsi enemy.

10. The Social Revolution of 1959, the Referendum of 1961, and the Hutu Ideology, must be taught to every Hutu at every level. Every Hutu must spread this ideology widely. Any Hutu who persecutes his brother Hutu for having read, spread, and taught this ideology is a traitor.

June 28, 2009

June 28, 2009 – 11.30 pm

Muraho from Kigali, Rwanda!! (That means Hello!!)

I’m just going to take a minute to tell you how incredibly beautiful Rwanda is. There are literally a thousand hills, if not more, all rolling and covered in houses. The soil is mostly red, and there’s greenery everywhere. In Rwanda, there are mandatory public service days when the government calls for it—no, there are no arrests or anything; it’s voluntary, but most people want to participate—and they plant beautiful plants on the sides of the roads, and clean up any litter they see. There are parts of the country that are more polluted than others, because their cars don’t have any standards to meet, but there are also a lot of motorbikes that are ridden (moto-taxis are common, as well, and I’ll probably be using one to get to my internship next week. Don’t worry mom, they’re safe! The police pull them over at random to check licenses and registration, so they have to be able to drive well, or their licenses get taken away), and a few bikes when you get away from the city—bicycles are banned in Kigali, because there are a lot of crazy drivers.

And the people!! The people are incredibly beautiful. They wear a lot of American clothing, but you see a lot of women wearing traditional clothing, as well, and it’s incredibly colourful and the designs are just so intricate. There are a lot of churches—80% Roman Catholic—and you can hear the choirs from the streets, and the music is breathtaking. We live in a hotel by St. Paul’s church, and can hear the singing from our rooms. It’s beautiful. We’re on a hill, and can see much of the city when we’re outside. The sun rises around 6, apparently, and I’m going to try to catch it in the morning with Ashley before I shower.

Rwanda is cheaper than the United States, but not by a whole lot. A dollar is worth about 500 Rwandan francs, and you can buy a cup of coffee for 1000 rwf, and a meal is usually between 1500 and 4000 rwf, so roughly 3-8 dollars, depending on whether it’s breakfast or lunch. I’ve actually been having a lot of trouble with my ‘global phone’—Verizon lied to me, and said I’d be able to make calls for about 0.25 per minute, but it’s going to be 2.29. What a scam!! Me and my roommate Edy are going to share a cell phone—I think they’re about twenty dollars plus the sim card, but it should be fine to share. Internet access here is actually awesome. I got two hours for 1000 rwf at an internet café, and it was a bit slow, but worked just fine, and I could instant message and everything. We’re six hours ahead of EST, so it was 6.00 my time and 12 pm my mum’s time.

NOW… what have I done today, you ask?! Amazing things!! I got up at 6.15 am this morning feeling incredibly fresh and well-rested—the mattresses are great—and took a shower before running to the Bourbon Street coffee shop at the 24-hour ‘mall,’ and then meeting Silas and his bus at 8.15 to head to AJPRODHO (Association de la Jeunesse pour les Droits de I’homme et le Developpement, or Youth Association for Human Rights and Debelopment) to begin our orientation. We met John, who is an incredibly exuberant and energetic man, Ugandan by birth, who is now the executive secretary of AJPRODHO, and he began by talking to us a bit about the program and its goals:
*Giving Rwandans access to justice and Human Rights
*Teaching governance and how citizens can involve themselves for change
*Helping with economic development
*Networking within communities for empowerment and betterment of the program

So yes, AJPRODHO is an incredible youth program, and reminds me a lot of some of the programs we have in the US, and specifically on Cape Cod—the Human Rights Academy comes straight to my mind.

We were also given tips from Jesse, John, and Silas, who recommended we only take transport from men in a green jersey and helmet, which means they’re legally licensed moto-taxi drivers, and to hail them, we can raise our hand or hiss, ‘tsssss!’ It takes about 500 rwf to get to AJPRODHO from St. Paul’s, which is about a dollar, and to make sure they have change for your bill before you accept the ride.

Tipping is another question that came up while having lunch at the Simba Café, and John said that Rwandans don’t usually tip, but waitstaff in most places do not earn a lot, so any type of a tip, even coins, is a very nice gesture, especially if the service is good. He advised us not to give more than 1 or 2%, though, as opposed to our usual 15-20% tips, as they don’t want to be viewed as a charity case. We also should refrain from eating while walking down the street, because people will think it’s really odd.

We learned some quick phrases in Kinyarwanda, such as, ‘Nshobora ku gu fotora?’ which means, ‘Can I have your photo?’ It’s very impolite to photograph people, especially adults, without asking first, and people do not usually smile in photographs, so we also learned, ‘Ushobora guseka?’ which means, ‘Can you smile?’ We also have:
Nshobora – Can I?
Amakuru – How are you?
Murakoze – Thank you
Seka – Smile!
Mbabarira – I’m sorry or Excuse me (to be polite and not give to beggars)
Ntronfite – I don’t have anything
Or French ‘desole,’ meaning, ’sorry!’

Our program, specifically, has four goals, which are
*Increase understanding of context and practice of human rights activism
*Cross cultural dialogue
* Assist local Rwandan organizations currently working in the field of human rights
*Explore options for sustainability and endurance of our collective actions

Cross-cultural dialogue is very interesting, though. Customs and traditions are incredibly different in Rwanda than in the United States, but US citizens have a very preconceived notion of Americans, just as Americans have a preconceived notion of Rwandans, as with all Africans—we tend to think they’re all the same throughout the continent, and that is really a falsity.

The Rwandan government has banned all use of ‘Hutu,’ ‘Tutsi,’ and ‘Twa,’ in legal language, and it’s generally frowned upon socially unless talking about the genocide of the past. Everyone is viewed as one people, which sounds great as an ideal, but is very difficult to implement. However, there is no truth in the ‘history of Rwanda.’ Traditionally Hutu people believe the Tutsi came from Ethiopia as nomads, the Hutu are generally seen as farmers, and the Twa, the minority and only ‘true,’ people of Rwanda, are looked down upon as potters, and are generally very poor and very discriminated against in Rwanda, though they’re not technically supposed to be classified as the ‘Twa,’ group. Instead, people are referred to, ‘perpetrators,’ ‘victims,’ ‘survivors,’ or, ‘suspects,’ of genocide. We will witness this at the Gacaca hearing, hopefully to be held on July 11, if it is not rescheduled by the government—they do that sometimes.

John told us something interesting that I jotted down in my steno pad. He said that genocide survivors are generally not taken care of by the government, and that seems to me a direct correlation to this policy of all, ‘being one.’ It also struck me as something similar to the veteran population of the United States. Both of these groups are not well funded, and many are homeless, sick, or mentally ill, if not all three. There is so much PTSM, and it is often ignored as genocide survivors live in the same village as a perpetrator who may have killed the survivor’s whole family. The survivors are expected to forgive, and, for the most part, they do an incredible job, mainly in part to church and their belief in Jesus Christ. However, 56.4% of all citizens of Rwanda still live below the poverty line.

Those are just some parting thoughts, and my musings, basically. Tomorrow, we are visiting the Genocide Memorial of Kigali at 10am, and spending the afternoon at the Uyisenga N’Manzi Peace Village of child-headed households. It should be incredibly moving; it is a village partly funded by the government to contribute to the psychological and economic rehabilitation of orphaned children affected by HIV/AIDS and genocide, as well as young girls who were victims of rape and other forms of sexual violence. Should be an incredibly moving and learning experience, and I look forward to sharing it with you tomorrow, or whenever I’m able to upload another entry!

Ijoro Ryiza!

-Mac

June 27, 2009

And I’m back again, but a bit bummed that the Internet on my Blackberry doesn’t seem to be working, nor the email. Sad. I thought for sure I would beat the crazy text messaging rate by sending emails to people’s phones.

As I typed my last blog, I was sitting with other delegates, Samantha Gavagan, Lynnette Miner, Julie Simeone, and Ashley Smith at the airport in Washington, DC. We all got along really great, and stuck together through the whole ordeal. I ended up sitting with this woman named Linda Taylor who was headed to Malawi to do missionary work for two weeks. She was nice, and reminded me of me, a bit—talking socks, telling tall tales, and just being rather interesting.

It was a freaking long flight, though. It took about eight hours, I believe, to get to Rome, Italy, where we refuelled and sat tight, and then it was another six to get to Addis Ababa (we flew over Khartoum and I was really disturbed by being so near to such atrocities). Africa is unlike anything you could ever imagine. We only saw Ethiopia from the sky, but there is so much farmland, and it’s really very flat. The buildings all have flat tops, as well, so it’s kind of like that scene in Slumdog Millionaire where they zoom out and show how close the buildings were together, but just not that extreme. It was scattered portions of houses pulling the slumdog.

There were armed personnel at the airport, too! Or first look at how Africa keeps order. They were nice enough, but it definitely discourages crime if there’s a man with a handgun right by security.

So, we got onto our Kigali plane (I sat next to this cute guy who I was too shy to actually speak to (well, he was really engrossed in his book (but I lent hm a pen later when it was time for customs stuff)) from Doctors Without Borders, and I just thought that was so nice) and this time the flight was shorter—like 2 hours 45 minutes or something. Let me just tell you—there is nothing more gorgeous than the country of Rwanda as you descend into it. It’s laden with hills, and there are also scattered groups of houses, and so much gorgeous red soil… it’s so real and so much less commercialized than the United States. It’s the earth the way it was supposed to be.

We get our bags (after irrationally freaking out because we don’t know the address of St. Pauls’s —it didn’t end up mattering) and met Silas (!!!) right outside. He was the sweetest man, and helped carry my bags to the car/taxi. We arrived at St. Pauls, and it had the most amazing view of the city, and a gorgeous garden to boot! It ended up being the only photos I took the first day (there will be a ton more tomorrow, I promise, when I get a chance to upload these entries, as well).

Silas showed us around the city a bit, helped people buy cell phones and change money (exchange rate $1=560 rwf, BUT thing are NOT cheap in Rwanda). We ate lunch/dinner at a place called Simba café, and then came back to meet (most) of the rest of the delegation, and I met my roommate, Idi (or Edie, I’m not sure how she spells it) Yin, the sweetest girl in the world. She’s from China, but her family moved to Texas, which she hates, and now she goes to Brown University. She’s fabulous, and I couldn’t ask for a better roommate.

Oh! I forgot something! We’re staying right next to a Catholic church, and we hear their choir practicing ALL the time—it’s incredibly cultural and incredibly beautiful. Jesse also ended up taking a few of us to a little café for dinner where there was live music, and that was quite interesting, too. Idi and I really want to go back next week.

Well, I have to get some shuteye! I’m up early for a jam-packed day… we get to meet our Rwandan delegates! Yay!

I love Rwanda!

June 27, 2009

Double post--oops!

June 26, 2009

Well, here I am at Washington Dulles airport, with a bit of a layover, and I realized that I haven’t blogged at all to introduce myself or anything! I’m MacKenzie Hamilton, a recent graduate of Harwich High School, and an incoming freshman at Smith College.

As an anti-genocide activist, this trip to Rwanda provides me with a unique opportunity to view a recovering nation, and find how they rebuilt after the 1994 genocide. I have to give a huge shout-out to Emily Cunningham of STAND who gave me the email to apply to this program. As I sit here with four other young women from the delegation, I realize how incredibly lucky we are to be making this pilgrimage.

Although arriving at Logan came with a few speed bumps, the DC leg has been cake thus far. I’m looking forward to catching up on a bit of sleep (I left the house at 2.30 this morning), and reading a bit of Dalliare’s book, Shake Hands With The Devil, which I highly recommend to anyone interested in the Rwandan genocide. It’s an incredible read, and very comprehensive, as he led the UN peacekeeping force for Rwanda in 1993-1994.

So what will I be doing in Rwanda? That’s an excellent question! I’ll be attending a Gacaca hearing (bringing genocidaires to justice for their actions in the 1994 genocide), staying with a family in Kigali for three days, interning at a program called RAPP – Rwandans Allied for Peace and Progress, teaching theatre to teenagers, and learning about the rebuilding of this once-troubled nation. I’ll be taking a lot of pictures, as long as my camera cooperates with me (it’s temperamental on occasion), and hopefully learning things that can help me in my fight to end the Darfur genocide.

PS -> Any of you who haven’t, make sure to clear your schedules for August 3^rd – you’re coming to the Cape to go to a Sarah Lee Guthrie concert. They’re performing at a dinner in Chatham (tickets are $40, advance pay; let me know if you’re interested) and then a concert at the Chatham bandstand with a $10 suggested donation. Sarah Lee and her husband Johnny are not only incredible musicians, but incredible people—ALL proceeds go to our sister school in Djebal Refugee Camp in Chad.